DAYS 42 - 44 BROOME

10-12 April 2008

DAYS 42 - 44 Pilbara – Kimberley Trip

BROOME

Thursday 10 April

After a very humid night we slowly packed up and made our way to Broome. 
The road between Pt Headland and Broome, if unbroken by a stop, can be very tedious.  It was great that after Barn Hill the landscape did change.   Purple, range of greens, bronze gold and orangy browns appeared in the landscape.

Then changed some more.

And lots of cattle in one area – haven’t seen this before on the trip.

On our way in to Broome we stopped at Mango Place and tried some Mango wine.  A very different and unusual taste.  We then had a most beautifully refreshing smoothie.  After stocking up on some mustards and mango oil we continued on.  On arriving in Broome we did a circuit of the camp grounds.  Although Roebuck Bay Caravan Park had been recommended by many as it is right at Town Beach we decided against it as you couldn’t swim in the bay and it had no swimming pool.  In this weather you need to be able to cool down.  As  Min is staying put here for 10 days whilst I fly back to Jindabyne to give our daughter a hand we wanted to set up camp where he would have an opportunity cool off.  So we decided on Palm Grove Caravan Park.

We set up and went into town.  I found that Broome is actually quite spread out.  Whilst there is a central area there are two shopping centres.  One has Coles, the other Woolworths and Target.  The Information Centre is beautifully set up inside and out. I liked the handout they give everyone that has the map of Broome and most things listed on it from tour operators to local businesses. 

Hubby contacted an auto electrician and managed to get an appointment for the next day.  We drove around to Gantheaune Point and watched a beautiful sunset from here.  The rock formations must continue from Barn Hill to here as rock composition and colours were similar and just as stunning. 

A lighthouse dominates the landscape.

This is the place from which at a very, very low tide one can scramble down the rocks and walk out some distance to see ancient dinosaur prints.  However, as they are not easily accessible a cast has been made of them for peoples to see them without scrambling down rocks.

After watching the sunset we decided to treat ourselves to a meal out and went to the Divers Tavern at Cable Beach.  We shared a lovely meal of spare ribs – it was huge.  Just don’t know how one person could have eaten it.  After so many weeks of cooking it was nice to have a night off from the task.

Friday 11 April

This morning hubby rushed off to the auto electrician.  The solar regulator was found to be faulty.  So a new regulator was duly put in.  We should now be able to run everything for 2 full days without running the engine.

Whilst he was at the auto electrician’s I explored the Boulevard Shopping Centre.  We then met up explored a bit of China town and went to several galleries. 

At the Monsoon Gallery the work of several artists blew us away.  The 3D collages of Leon Pericles were absolutely magnificent incorporating various materials and textures including fine drawings, prints, relics, shells, coral, fabric.  Marilyn Tabatznik’s sculpted very solid chair made out of pulped police reports which was then treated as a 3D canvas was stunning and very rich in colour and texture through the iconic images she uses from many world religions.  Ingrid Windrom’s “Boabs and Kapoh” (print on canvas) captured the richness of colours in the region and was just beautiful.  Julie Silvester’s 3 pastel works captured the energy and movement of the sea brilliantly.

At the Broome 6 Gallery we saw some Wanjina paintings as well as work of Kevin Waina whose work we were familiar with.  Had a very interesting conversation with the Gallery Manager who gave us some pointers for our trip north.  The Geiko Gallery presented works of Aboriginal artist from the Western Desert, some of whom had works in the recent Pupunya Exhibition at the National Museum of Australia in Canberra.

We then went to Denise Walker’s extremely colourful gallery.  Her works are vibrant and focus on the Kimberley in colour and inspiration.  As one walked in her dramatic depiction of the Staircase to the Moon greeted you.  I wish I could have etaken it home.  Her artist statement really captured it and I quote it as presented at the gallery.
“. . . work about capturing light and the feeling of the immense vastness of this land.  I want people to breathe in the healing, vibrant colours and feel how it lights the spirits and sense of well being.”

We finally returned to the caravan park for a swim and to chill out.  The charger was put on to charge the batteries.  Watch this space!

Checked our emails and a friend has sent hubby a very informative article
on car electrics.  So I didn’t have access to the computer whilst the article was studied in great detail.



Saturday 12 April

I packed this morning for a short trip to Jindabyne to give our daughter a hand.  Then we went to the Saturday market at the Courthouse.  What a hive of activity.  Indulged in some lovely mango juice whilst looking around.  There was an eclectic mixture of stalls.  Some were professionals selling their high quality wares – jewellery, photographs whilst others were selling run of the mill items.  There were very few produce stalls.

We had parked our car next to a Boab tree and hubby has been eyeing of the boab nuts as he would love to carve one.

The day again is hot and humid.  So humid that I decided not to change until I got to the airport so that I did not have to fly in damp clothes.  I flew from Broome to Sydney.  The plane flew over the Great Sandy Desert, Simpson Desert and the Channel Country.  It was very interesting watching the landscape unfold from the air.  I wish I had a camera with stronger magnification.   From Sydney I flew to Canberra where I was met by my girlfriend.   I spent the night with her family and over a late cuppa her family and I caught up with each other’s news.  It was strange coming to Canberra and not going home.  Tomorrow morning I will be making my way to Jindabyne whilst hubby battles the humidity in Broome.
 

DAYS 40 - 41 BARN HILL

8-9 April 2008

DAYS 40 - 41 Pilbara – Kimberley Trip

BARN HILL

Tuesday 8 April

We will always remember today, 8 April, as a very special day.  This evening we heard that our daughter gave birth to a healthy little boy.  Surprisingly we were in contact range and we heard within a half an hour of the birth.  Had we stayed at Eighty Mile Beach Caravan Park we would have missed out on the news.

We are just so happy for them!

As you can tell from the title we decided to move on to Barn Hill today.  Hot and humid and it did hit 41 today.  Not a pleasant day at all in respect to the temperature as humidity must be in high 90s.  At Sandfire Roadhouse termite mounds lined the entry/exit and a group of peacocks were strutting there stuff going backwards and forwards across the road with not a care in the world as cars took care to avoid them..

Car electrics still a problem.  The new charger gave up the ghost last night.  Problem still not solved and causing more and more headaches for dear hubby.  It is beginning to have its toll.  I just hope the problem will be solved in Broome.

I am thankful to a friend who travelled here last year and told us about Barn Hill as the rock formations on the beach are truly very unusual. We managed to go for a walk as the tide was going out.

The unusual colours of the rocks was also intriguing.

I intend to explore them further tomorrow.



Wednesday 9 April

After a hot and humid day we got up to face the day.  We managed to go for a walk on one side of the coastline before the tide came in.  There was a 9 metre high tide forecast for Broome today so it was similiar here. 

The colours on the rocks are so different – pinks against a dark crimson red earth. The beach is pristine.  A few shells splattered along the coast line.  We were absolutely soaked with perspiration by the time we got back.  So we had a shower and sat in the shade to read.  The showers are open to the sky and the water is supposedly cold but comes out warmish.  The showers were very refreshing.

Hubby again got into the electrics and found that the solar panels were producing the voltage but it was being lost between the battery and alternator.  The fridge was using more power than we were generating.  So he’s back checking the alternator.  It is really getting to him.

I went for another walk as the tide started to go out.  This time I went to the other side.  Again more fascinating formations.

The formations look rugged and strong whilst at the same time have a sense of fragility.  One has a sense of the ephemeral  - here today maybe gone tomorrow.

The sand was so pristine except for the many interestingly coloured rocks, a splattering of shells and jelly fish.

 Hubby came to meet me as I had been gone a while.  On the way back, as always if there are any stairs, he did his stretches in preparation for the ski season.  This time I had the camera handy to catch him at it.

DAY 39 EIGTHY MILE BEACH

7 April 2008

DAY 39 Pilbara – Kimberley Trip

EIGTHY MILE BEACH

Moved on today from the Cape to 80 Mile Beach Caravan Park – only 114 km further north. The caravan park is like a little oasis. Lots of trees provide shade. The shore line is not as captivating as on the Cape. Lots of sand, shells but no swimming as there are too many stingers in the sea.

Caught up with the washing as I wanted the sheets to have a wash and an airing because of the humid nights we have been having. We have been waking up in the night absolutely soaked in perspiration – as if we had been for a shower and not dried ourselves. Lots of friendly chirpy visitors.

Hubby went fishing again and he finally caught not one but three fish.

So we had a lovely blue snapper for dinner tonight. I finally got into my book. A very relaxing day but we needed a shower to cool down from the humidity.

DAY 38 CAPE KERAUDREN - EIGTHY MILE BEACH

6 April 2008

DAY 38 Pilbara – Kimberley Trip

CAPE KERAUDREN - EIGTHY MILE BEACH

As we had dinner last night and army of hermit crabs descended on us. What a combination of shells they were camouflaged under. What a sight!

After some unsuccessful fishing off the rocks we decided to explore the area.

The Cootenbrand Creek was running high as the 7 metre tide was coming in. The water was flowing very fast.

This is what it looked like as the tide was going out.

We drove onto the beach and joined the construction team from Pt Headland in the waters of the creek. We were invited to join them for a barbeque lunch that was absolutely delicious. After sitting in the water some more and going for a walk to look at shells we finally explored the area. Onto Mosquito Creek we went where a salty makes a home.

We changed campsites as we wanted to try and catch a breeze. So we camped close to where hubby had fished. No water in sight now that the tide was out. What wonders were revealed below the high tide water line.




And what amazing imprints in the sand.

The tide was out to reveal a most amazing rock labyrinth.

Many rocks had shell encrustations.

Saw some mud crabs hiding in the rock orifices. Came across an octopus and watched it camouflage itself in the rock pool.


It is hard to see it now!

The mangroves were totally exposed to the elements.

One mangrove looked like a figure carrying a weight.

Mangrove roots were exposed and drying till the next tide.

There was evidence of new formations forming.

There were beautiful impressions on the sea bed.

Sea eagles flew above us.

What a lovely day!

DAY 37 PORT HEADLAND - CAPE KERAUDREN via MARBLE BAR

5 April 2008

DAY 37 Pilbara – Kimberley Trip

PORT HEADLAND - CAPE KERAUDREN via MARBLE BAR

What a day today!

First of all the charger we bought stopped working during the night. So in the morning we headed back into town and exchanged it. When they tested it, it was dead. What a waste getting a powered site in the caravan park!

We then headed to Marble Bar with the intention of spending at least a night here if not two or three. As usual we checked in with our daughter to let her know our intentions.

The very distant ranges were very unusual. They were too far to capture them on film. They looked jagged.

They were a mixture of steep triangle like structures with a pimple on top, a two hump camel back to vertically straight sides with a flat top. It looked very peculiar. Then after the turn off to Marble Bar for a while the land was flat as a pancake except for the odd rocky outcrop. Then you got some ranges again but they looked very weathered and had no trees or few trees on them.

As we were driving along the electrics were really annoying hubby. He believed he was getting incorrect readings of oil, voltage and temperature.

Anyway getting back to the trip. We crossed the Coongan River. I was very glad it was dry as it would not have been fun crossing it if the water was flowing. The landscape is just unreal. There is no shade. The countryside is stark, dramatic. In a way I could see parallels between here and north Alaska. Both places have extremes of temperature, the country side adapting to the extreme conditions. Survival of the fittest – in the tundra trees that are hundreds of years old are small with narrow trunks providing no shelter. Trees here are small with narrow trunks, offering no shade. As we got closer to Marble Bar ranges appeared again.


As we drove into Marble Bar our expectations grew as there was a lovely series of sculptures welcoming you to the biggest shire in the world – the East Pilbara Shire.


There was a very well maintained race track and then we hit the town before midday and . . . and. . . only a tiny little corner shop was open and the proprietor was looking at the clock and said “20 minutes and I am out of here”. Nothing! One local suggested we head out to Comet Mine and they will provide information on the area. And guess what – it hit 41 – AGAIN!!!!

So we headed to Comet Mine. It is no longer a working mine but they had a very interesting display of rocks of the area and some jewellery for sale. They were also the de facto information centre for the area. After spending some time here we headed for the Jasper deposit. It was an interesting track to get there.

We headed for Marble Pool. The water was not inviting but the rocks were stunning if you splashed water on them. Just like in the brochures.

But, how long is one prepared to keep splashing the water in this heat. To get into the water proper you would have had to make your way over some very, very slippery rocks.

Met a lovely young family from Cooma here – they moved to Pt Headland for work. Chinaman’s Pool was our next stop. It was a beautiful area. A pity you cannot camp here.

Marble Pool and Chinaman’s Pool are in actual Marble Bar. We looked at each other and decided not to stay here. We had been given a mud map of the best way to get to Cape Keraudren so we decide to go back part of the way and then take the turn off to Bamboo Creek and follow the track via the Muccan Shay Gap Rd. The scenery was stunning!!! It made our day.







The road was good but unsealed.

We crossed the De-Grey River – a very wide river crossing.

We both considered whether we should check the depth by wadding through it. We were in salty croc country according to some. We later heard they were definitely here. Hubby examined the flow and said it is not deep because . . .
So we crossed it. Then before we knew there was a railway line parallel to the road. Apparently this part of the road is a private BHP road to Yarrie Mine.

We were met at the entrance to Cape Keraudren by the ranger and birds in the tree. I am sorry but I could not get the picture to be rotate correctly on the blog.

After some discussion we moved on to find a campsite for the night with million dollar views. We were not disappointed.

And . . . another beautiful sunset.
Something I have been meaning to mention in the blog and then slips my mind is the fashions out here in the west. From Kalgoorlie all the way up the Pilbara one constantly sees the orange, yellow, blue outfits with reflective stripes. Caravan clothes lines are full of them. And you see them all behind the wheel of a ute, covered in Pilbara red, with an orange flag and a blinking orange light.