DAY 13 Pilbara – Kimberley Trip, SNAKE HILL – MALCOLM DAM

12 March 2008


DAY 13 Pilbara – Kimberley Trip

SNAKE HILL – MALCOLM DAM

What a lovely day today
Although I’d like to give the heat away
The hot refrain is with us again
It has hit forties once again
As we head slowly north
Whilst striving forth
On gibber tracks and roads
Past mulga scrub in loads

“Inside Australia” we dropped in
To see Gromley’s carbonised steel figures sunk in
Like antennas in Ballard Salt Lake’s ba-sin
They walk in the water, or so it would seem
As rain in the area there has much been
Not easy to walk on the salty lake bed
As feet slip and sink in the muddy lake bed



After some dips in Niagara Dam
Wandered if it will be the same at Malcolm Dam
Then to Niagara the town that has been
And to Kookynie likewise it seems
Like blazing trails of passing comets
They rose and fell as well known sonnets

Along Old Laverton Road we go
Looking for signs that will tell us where to go
Finally turn left and three K to go
To sit by the water and nowhere else need I go



You must be wandering what is “Inside Australia”. It is an incredible instillation of 51 life size sculptures by an English Born artist, Anthony Gromley on a salt lake 51 km from Menzies. They were obviously installed when the lake was empty as we could only get to a few of them. The rest were way out in the water.

DAY 11 Pilbara – Kimberley Trip- Kalgoorlie

10 March 2008

Kalgoorlie


What a lovely cool day!! Last night we worked on how to get photos up on the blog. Tonight we will have another go at it. I hope it works.











It was a busy day
In Kalgoorlie today
Oka Kalgoorlie
Was waiting for your truly
To service and check
Oka’s workings to test

Booked flights to and from Broome
What a saga that couldn’t end too soon
A look over stately Kalgoorlie town
RFDS, museum – no time to be down
Then finally back to Oka Kalgoorlie and its line up of Oka’s
To find a behold a clean smarter looking Oka
Ready for testing its fate
As towards north it skates

Then down some roads and lanes
Onto Kalgoorlie’s own brothel lane
To five star Langtry 181
To hear the history of that one
Till son from the east does ring
“Where are you, tell at least that thing”
“At a brothel”, says hubby with a grin
As I imagine son’s jaw drop like a pin
What are those parents of mine
Up to in that town of mines.












As you can see a most enjoyable day was had. The Oka had been booked in for a service, before we left on the trip, with one of the very few Oka specialists around. I had been told by hubby that if Robin says its fine, he will be more relaxed about our trip. After a warm welcome, we were provided with a car for the day whilst the Oka was being given the once over. Thank you Robin. I booked my flights back to give a hand to our daughter when she has baby no 2. We spent 90 minutes in a public phone booth (for a cost of a local call) – 30 minutes on hold, then trying to get flights between Broome and Canberra using altitude points. Came close to giving up.



Loved the Kalgoorlie Museum and the Royal Flying Doctor Service tour was brilliant. The buildings down the main street were like a walk down history lane. Line upon line of beautifully maintained/restored buildings.





The statue of Patrick Hannan outside the Information Centre was a timely reminder of the reason for Kalgoorlie being here as he discovered gold in here in 1893.

DAY 12 KALGOORLIE - SNAKE HILL

11 March 2008

DAY 12 Pilbara – Kimberley Trip

Today it started to warm up again.

Last night we finally solved the question of how to post photos. So I spent some time in the library today updating all the postings. So please have a look over previous posts as the photos are now on. Also we really enjoy receiving comments from you. Please keep them up.

After the library a visit to the post office was necessary as I finally finished making a baby shawl. I packed it and all other wool I had taken with me and posted them to my daughter. It is just too hot to knit or crotchet as we travel. I also finally drew up the templates for our Dye Hards friendhip quilt blocks. I posted them as well as the postcards to the older granchildren. Since we first started travelling in our Oka in August 2004 I have sent the grandkids a postcard from every town we visit (if they had postcards of the town) so that they could plot our trip on a map that we had left with them of Australia. This way they were being introduced to many parts of Australia. I still do this.

Back to Kalgoorlie and our trip. I really like Kalgoorlie. The locals are very friendly. The town is clean and lots of bougainvilleas are in bloom wherever you look. After another visit to Kalgoorlie Oka to pick up a few additional spares we left in the afternoon. We pulled up at the Miner’s Hall of Fame. It was so hot and we were just too mentally tired to spend a couple of hours having a look. So we pushed north.

A road sign alerted us to possible road trains of up to 53.5 metres long. Hope we don’t run into any of those today.

Stopped at Menzies and then continued onto Snake Hill via Sandstone Road.



What a beautiful view from here of Lake Ballard. More importantly – it had a considerable amount of water. I think we were witnessing a rather rare event as the lake was last full from March to July in 1995. Before that, since European settlement, it has only been full in 1929, 1963, July 1973 and 1974, May 1975 and September 1986. From where we were it looked full. Lake Ballard is listed on the Register of the National Estate as it is deemed to be a nationally significant ecosystem to be protected.


We decided to spend the night here. After the accordion had a few repairs done I was serenaded as the sun set and the meal was being cooked.

Day 10 - TRANS ACCESS ROAD TO KALGOORLIE

9 March 2008

DAY 10 Pilbara – Kimberley Trip

TRANS ACCESS ROAD TO KALGOORLIE

We woke to a cool change – couldn’t believe it. After four days of temperature in the forties it felt coldish today yet it was in the thirties.


We continued on the Trans Access Road. It continued to be good. It was interesting to see the care the locals pay to the road as several places were marked to indicate where a hole had subsided in the road. It was interesting to note the change in vegetation. In places it was rich green.

Finally we hit Boulder and saw the sign for the Super Pit Lookout. What an awesome sight! The Kalgoorlie Consolidated Gold Mines or known as the KCGM Super Pit is 3.8 km long and 1.35 km wide and goes down about 500 metres. It shifts 7 million tonnes per month of which 1 million bears gold ore up to grade 2.2gms per tonne.


The Norseman – Wiluna Belt is known as the Greenstone belt and consists of volcanic and sedimentary rocks, intruded by number of doleritic sills. This greenstone is surrounded by extensive granite. These rocks are between 2.9 and 2.6 billion years old. The mine has a totally computer based automated dispatch system so that they know exactly what their mine is doing at any time and information can be accessed remotely. The cost of running the mine is also staggering as a single Face Shovel truck costs $10 million and there are 4 on site, whilst a Mining Truck costs $4 million and there are 31 on site. Alan Bond is responsible for initiating the bringing together of all the leases that were in separate hands for nearly a century. It is now possible to operate a single gigantic and ever descending awesome pit. What a sight and what a vision!!!


As we entered Kalgoorlie on Sunday afternoon everything is shut. We stoped at service station and were able to pick up some information. A local gave us information about caravan parks. So here we are at Prospector’s Caravan Park catching up with writing my diary whilst hubby cleaned the car of bulldust and washing our sheets.

I am sorry that there are no photos but I can't seem to be able to down load them onto the blog. If anyone knows how please email me.

Day 9 - MADURA – COCKLEBIDDY – RAWLINNA – TRANS ACCES ROAD

8 March 2008

DAY 9 Pilbara – Kimberley Trip

MADURA – COCKLEBIDDY – RAWLINNA – TRANS ACCES ROAD

We were one of the first in yesterday at Madura but this morning we were the last out leaving at 8:00 am Perth time.

Another hot night and another hot, hot day. At 8.00am it was already 30C. We delayed putting on the air conditioning till the batteries started charging properly. Something did not seem right to hubby. The conundrum was whether it was the alternator or the regulator. One minute it was charging fine the next it was not charging. At Cocklebiddy all batteries were checked and they all appeared to be charging well. So air con came on.

We tried to get local information on the road from Cocklebiddy to Rawlinna. Those at the garage/shop did not have any information except to say you can get lost on the road and that you were better off going to Caiguna and checking there. Our maps showed no road from Caiguna to Rawlinna. We decided with some trepidation to risk it as we had enough fuel and supplies. We turned north and headed for Rawlinna. Several large eagles were in the skies. Around Arudibby we came to an intersection that was not that clearly labelled.

We ended up at a homestead so hubby went in and checked in with the locals. They were very helpful, gave us a local map and clear directions not to get lost. As long as we travelled slowly we should be right they said. They asked us to ring them when we got to Rawlinna. Their son took us to the closest gate as a short cut to send us on our way.


It was a very, very interesting trip and we do not regret in any way doing it. It took us 4 hours to do 96 kilometres – slow and steady over a very stony road. We had to watch out for sharp stones. If you went fast you would possibly shred your tyres. Due to the precise directions we had we felt confident as we travelled along the road. From Cocklebiddy to the railway their were 14 gates, 12 of which I had to hop out and open and then close.

50k after the homestead we came to the dingo fence and as instructed we turned north and followed the fence till we came to the railway line for the 46 k – at the junction to Balgar Homestead. It was interesting that this track was spot on north with an occasional 1 or 2 degree deviation.

Along this stretch of road there was little grass. At times there was no tree insight 360 degrees – wherever you looked. Then occasionally a lone tree would appear.




We saw lots and lots of kangaroos. They were lying in small hollows under salt bushes along the way and a surprising number would spring up out of the shade of the small bush and then hop away.


Finally we hit the Indian Pacific Rail line. We turned west onto the Trans Access Road. This road was like a highway. Although it was a dirt road it was very well maintained. At Rawlinna we stopped and called the homestead to let them know we were through and to thank them for their assistance. We continued along the railway and the dingo fence. The soil changed colour to a strong orange colour. The water from our water bladders, that were hanging on each side of us, were so hot that hubby declared you could make a cup of tea or coffee with it. Shortly we heard our first train coming from the west. We slowed down and took a photo whilst the driver blew the whistle. It is a busy line as we saw another 3 trains today. We saw the dingo fence maintenance contractor driving along the fence line before stopping to camp 78 k west of Rawlinna. It was a beautiful spot and we had an incredible sunset to farewell the day.

Having crossed the Nullarbor plain
On to Eucla, Madura in the heat and pain
From cocklebiddy
To Arudibby
Oh Rawlinna here we come
Slow and steady and then some
On stony track past salt bush scrub
No trees in sight, just scrub
Fifty K then turn right
Along the dingo fence alright
True north we went and went
Startling roos who then fled
Four hours to the Trans Access Road
To rock along ninty six K on the so called road
Then woe and behold
A perfect road west.

DAY 8 - NULLARBOR – EUCLA – MADURA

7 March 2008

DAY 8 Pilbara – Kimberley Trip



What a hot night it was. When we got up we found dingo/wild dog and fox tracks around our campsite. The strong northerly wind was still blowing. We slowly made our way to the border and the accompanying cliffs of the bight gradually petered out.


As we were aware of quarantine regulations I had boiled our remaining potatoes up the night before and had made a cold borscht soup for tonight. We handed over our remaining onions and were soon on our way. Seems funny carrying no fresh fruit and vegetables.


Shortly we were in Eucla. After a cold drink we drove over to the Eucla Telegraph Station Ruins. It was hard work climbing the dunes to get to it in the heat. Massive sand dunes framed the ruins. It was not difficult to get a feel for how isolating and hot in must have been to those posted here to work when the station opened in December 1877.




The temperature today was in the forties mid morning. Kept drinking lots of water but even it was getting warmer and warmer as the day progressed. The scenery was constantly changing in subtle ways. Small tress started to appear leaning north and a range appeared on our right. The vegetation was getting denser, trees with increased foliage, not just a canopy of leaves, started to appear more frequently.

Our Nullarbor Planner included information about accommodation. We noted that the Madura Pass Oasis Motel, had camping facilities and a pool. So at Madura we turned left and spent the night here. As soon as we set ourselves up we headed for the pool. Another couple was already enjoying the pool. We chatted. They were from Tumut and on a twelve month trip. One of the truckies came to the pool and we had the opportunity to quiz him about what they were carrying as they had interesting looking containers on their trailers. We could hardly believe it when he told us they were transporting grapes harvested in Margaret River WA to Nuriootpa in SA. They were transporting it in shifts to get the grapes in perfect condition in the shortest possible time. One shift brought them from Margaret River to Norseman, another from Norseman to Madura, Madura to Kimba, Kimba to Nuriootpa. We asked under what label will the wine be sold but he didn’t have an answer.

After a lovely dinner of saltibarsciai (cold borscht) with fried potatoes we retired to the Oka as we were again inundated by bugs of all shapes and description as soon as we lit the outside light. Our idea of spending the evenings outside seem to be a dream as either the flies, mozzies or other biting bugs have ensured that we retreated indoors every evening so far.

Day 7 - STREAKY BAY - NULLARBOR

6 March 2008

DAY 7 Pilbara – Kimberley Trip



We woke to a beautiful dawn, and a cool morning with the sound of motor boats heading out the bay. The day soon heated up.



It reached 42 degrees. There was only one way of describing it – dry and hot!!! The air conditioner managed to keep the car slightly cooler. Our 2 fridges worked perfectly and demonstrated that they managed to stay 50C below ambient.

Coastal sand dunes and hot windy weather accompanied as on our way to Ceduna. Ceduna was a pretty spot with lots of shade along the coast. Information pamphlets indicate that the name comes from an Aboriginal word meaning ‘resting place’. It did feel like a resting place. We walked through the main street and browsed in some of the shops and visited the Ceduna Aboriginal Ars and Culture Centre. Most of the work was from Central Australia and there were some very beautiful pieces of work. We were a bit disappointed with Penong and went on to Fowlers Bay with its lovely jetty.



After a refreshing swim we continued west across the Nullarbor – dry parched earth, treeless plains, grey low scrub and a strong northerly. We saw what looked like a dingo crossing the road. We kept stopping at the lookouts to admire the Great Australian Bight. It was difficult to find a camping spot out of the wind. We had considered staying at a spot that had a great view but it was just too windy – you could barely stand up. So we finally backtracked about 10km to a spot we had seen earlier. Another night of fighting the flies.

Hot, hot, hot the story of the day
As we travelled down Flinders Way
Then turned back into Eyre Highway

To Ceduna we went
On food we did spend
Then lunched on grass
Hoping the heat will pass

On we went to Fowler Bay
Where we donned our togs for a swim in the bay
A little cooler it did seem
Or did we just dream

On and on we went in the scorching heat
Watching as the temperature kept steeping up a beat
Past the scorched Nullarbor plain
To camp and hope for change or rain

Day 6 - Beetaloo to Streaky Bay

5 March 2008

DAY 6 Pilbara – Kimberley Trip

BEETALOO – STREAKY BAY

Today was a day that felt like we would melt whilst travelling. Thankfully we had replaced our air conditioner before the trip. The temperature outside reached 42C in places. We made our way down Eyre’s Highway to Streaky Bay and are camped near the water on route to Cape Bauer.

On the way today we stopped at Iron Knob – the mountain with a heart of iron. Iron Knob is known as the birthplace of the Australian steel industry. The Information Centre has a fabulous little museum and provided a short film of the history of the area. Those staffing the office were very eager to share their wealth of information about the town. As early as 1840 it was noted that this area had deposits of iron by explorer Edward John Eyre. It is hard to believe that in the early days 70 ton was hand shovelled in a day. When BHP had leases here it was shipping the iron ore to Newcastle for processing. The current town was gazetted in 1915. Mining ceased here in 1999. Now they say “Iron Knob, what a hole! All 150 million tonnes of it.” That is because the mining left a huge hole as 150 million ton of iron ore was extracted from here.



The drive today was punctuated by the feeling of sameness around the sunburnt landscape whilst also recognising the uniqueness of the landscape in its subtle changes. As we travelled, the railway line was frequently in sight as was the water pipe line. What would happen to all the towns along the way if the Murray was no longer able to provide the water required so far from where it flows?


As we were preparing dinner we were initially ‘attacked’ by flies – little sticky ones and the March flies. My hubby commented that there were surprisingly no mozzies. He spoke too soon. All of a sudden we were swarmed by mozzies. My arm was black from them. We quickly retreated into the Oka to escape them and finish dinner. However, they managed to come with us. It took us a while to be rid of them.

Day 5 Adelaide to Beetaloo

4 March 2008

DAY 5 Pilbara – Kimberley Trip

After a slow start we got under way and went to visit my aunt’s as one was celebrating her birthday. After a lovely chat over coffee and my aunt’s fabulous cake we made our way out of Adelaide. After some calculations of kilometers and driving time we had to cross Cummings of our list as it would have added too much driving time to get to Kalgoorlie comfortably by Sunday night.

Another hot day today. As we drove I worked on the computer finalising my lists so that I could easily locate our provisions in their various baskets. So I didn’t really observe the scenery. I’ve been along this part of the road to Pt Augusta many times.

We dropped in on some great friends in Beetaloo Valley. We caught up with each other and our third bit of trouble on the trip was fixed. At our lunch stop on the way to Adelaide, as I was getting into the back, the top stepped moved. The welding had broken that holds the steps in place whilst travelling. Our friend was able to weld the bit in better than before. We had a laugh as the two ‘old codgers’ got their lap tops up and examined the various maps they work with.


After a b-que dinner and a great game of “Oh Hell” we finally retired for the night in the lovely home they had built themselves from rocks on their land and surrounding area.

Day 4 Adelaide

3 March 2008

DAY 4 Pilbara – Kimberley Trip


A relatively relaxing day in Adelaide today. Nice to visit family and catch up with the latest news. Last night one of my brothers and his wife dropped in at Mum’s and we had dinner together. The time flew fast. I also spoke to another brother in Cummings as I hope to drop in on him as well.

Today is hot – there is no other word for it. I caught up with several nephews. My husband called out to me “come and see this”, and then mumbled something about “small cars should never mess with an Oka”. I wondered what this was about. My nephew had parked his car nose to nose with our Oka. If it had been a head to head situation his car would have gone straight under ours and we would probably have not felt it. How scary is that.

Caught up with some of my administrative trip tasks and most importantly set up the blog site. Another of my nephews, who helped me whilst setting up the blog on their computer made a comment on my proposed blog name that I incorporated. However, I still haven’t figured out how to include photographs in the appropriate spots.

After another of our favourite meals at Mum’s we went to see the fringe festival with my brother. We strolled around the Garden of Unearthly Delights where we watched an interesting piece of street theatre, had a beer and met up with our niece. It was great to see so many people out and about on a Monday night. We then went down to North Terrace to see the Northern Lights show. Wow was it spectacular!!! The buildings facing north between the War Memorial and Bonython Hall were not only lit up but had designs/patterns projected onto them that totally changed the facade of the building.


It was based on Colonel Light’s vision for bringing light and enlightment to the people of South Australia. We walked along the street and admired the changing facades of the buildings as the projections changed at regular intervals. It was absolutely spectacular. I am very thankful to my brother for proposing this visit to the centre of Adelaide.