DAYS 27-29 Pilbara – Kimberley Trip
KARAJINI NATIONAL PARK
Wednesday 26 March -
Junction Pool Lookout, Oxley Lookout, Weano Gorge, Kalamina Gorge, Hamersley Gorge
A day of wonderful images. But I will start with tonight as we are currently “trapped” inside the back of our Oka as a Pilbara Death Adder lies close to our steps and is not budging!!! Yes it is true.
After reading the information at the visitor centres about the snakes in the Pilbara region and that they are most active at night, paranoid me checks the ground with a torch before exiting the van once it is dark. Someone has been very amused by my approach but maybe no more. I decided to go to the loo, grabbed the torch, lit it and shone it out the door. Hubby’s amusement at my tactic soon changed when he saw what I was pointing at. After some considerable time it has moved under the car, we think. Interesting night tonight.
Anyway this morning we woke up to the sound of rain. It rained overnight and the weather was muggy. It has been overcast and muggy but the temperature only reached 24 degrees. After a drive on a badly corrugated road we went to Junction Lookout first. A breath taking view of the intersection of Joffre, Hancock, Red and Weano Gorges as we stood 100m above where the gorges met. River Red Gums at the base of the gorge look miniscule in the scheme of things but are actually 20m tall, whilst the Northern Paper Bark trees 15m tall. As you look down you can’t help but appreciate the forces of nature that have carved out the gorges and the power of water in shaping the landscape.
A poignant reminder of the dangers of the gorge in the form of a memorial to an SES volunteer who lost his life during a flash flood whilst rescuing an injured visitor stands near the lookout.
We continued on to Oxer Lookout. We were standing on what was the sea floor 2,500 million years ago. Layers of banded iron rock formations tower over the valleys so far below. Erosion over millions of years has sculpted the rocks into present spectacular landscape. 
We had intended to do lots of walks to see everything.It was not to be. You need to be young, nimble, fit and agile not just fit to undertake most of the tracks in this park with experience in abseiling and rock climbing. That’s not us (any more). We attempted the Weano Gorge walk from the information bill board. It was a class 3 walk. It was a gentle walk descending into the gorge. You walk through a somewhat arid landscape that appears to camouflage the wonders below.
Then suddenly the ground starts to open up.
And it starts to reveal chasms, narrow passages, rock pools.
When we got to the floor of the gorge there was too much water, due to the rain they have had, for me to continue as it would have required considerable rock hopping and wadding in the water. Hubby could have continued but decided that he didn’t want to get wet, so we retraced our steps. We then entered the same gorge from another spot where we climbed down multitude of steps to the floor of the gorge. We went a little way towards the Handrail Pool. Again I decided to stop when we hit water. This time hubby continued on a bit but after the water got to his waist and with camera in hand he decided to call it a day.
After lunch we continued onto Kalamina Gorge. What a lovely gem. 
We walked down the steps to the waterfall. It was obvious that there had been recent flooding in the other direction from the waterfall because of all the litter round the tree trunks.
After some time in the gorge we dropped in at the visitor’s centre. The centre is jointly run by the three groups of traditional owners, the Banyjima, Yinhawangka and Kurrama people together with CALM. The design of the building is such that it blends with its surrounds. The centre provides a time capsule of information on the natural and cultural history of the park and its indigenous people. 
At the visitor’s centre we picked up a road report that had just come in. A change of plans for us as all roads to and from Rudall National Park are closed due to rains. Regretfully we crossed it off our itinerary.
Finally we got to Dales Camp Ground. After travelling on some badly corrugated and flooded road. What a beautiful setting. We spent some time talking to volunteer camp hosts, ‘grey nomads’. Apparently 100ml of rain fell at Dales last night. The campsites are nice and we are close to the amenities. Now we await to see what happens with the death adder.
Thursday 27 March
Circular Pool, Dales Gorge - Fortescue Falls and Fern Pool
Another day of incredible images! A pity the brilliance of the colours is lost when downsizing the image.
In the morning, after a night of steady rain, I made my way out of the Oka with some trepidation. (I had no choice but be the first to venture out – where has male chivalry disappeared?) No snake in sight. What a relief. The morning was very overcast and somewhat drizzly. The word of the day was “Wow!!!!”
Starting with the beautiful flowering Coastal Caper Flower.
Circular pool – stunning!
Fortescue Falls walk – fabulous!
Fortescue Falls – spectacular!
Fern Pool “Jubura” – humbling! A very special place.
As we walked from Fortescue Falls on to Fern Pool not only did the surrounds change but there was an accompanying change of ambience. Words like reverent, spiritual, peace came to mind. On entering Fern Pool I was not surprised with the sign that indicated that this was a special place for the local people and they asked those visiting not to dive or make loud noises.
We then slowly made our way towards Hamersley Gorge. The roads throughout the park are bad - badly corrugated. In addition after rain they are slippery and lots of floodways have water in them. This makes it difficult for anything but 4WDs.
I am captivated by the trees, along the way, particularly the snappy gum, as they look as if the are stretching, twisting with lots of effort to hold a huge weight. 
We went for a drive for a few kilometres on what is now known as the Nanaturra – Munjina Rd, previously the Hamersley – Wittenoom Rd. At the intersection there is a sign that says “Be prepared to stop” followed by another sign “steep descent – no passing or overtaking”. Another stunner as we descended right into a gorge and drove along what would be a creek/river bed for 1.5 km before the road and creek parted direction.
We camped at a beautiful spot just outside the park in a road train assembly area near Rio Tinto Range with Mt Frederick within view. These are the views surrounding us.
Friday 28 March
Hamersley Gorge
We saved the best till last – unknowingly.
It rained again last night. On the short 5km drive to Hamersley Gorge termite mounds melded with the landscape. Hard to tell at a distance whether it was a rock or a mound.
Hamersley Gorge was just brilliant – the lines, contours of the different periods of time, colours – just amazing. The heating cooling and erosion over millions of years has sculptured a masterpiece.
Purple, crimson, indigo, deep red, orange, greens and yellows layers of the gorge walls have twisted, collided, contorted reflecting the forces that uplifted and bent the landscape into its current state. 
A series of rock pools cascade one from another.
The top spa pool is not easy to get to with so much water because of the rain. Someone got close to it but it wasn’t me.
The beautiful waterfall pool was very inviting for a swim but it was not hot, just muggy.
After spending some considerable time here we decided to go back to the Hamersley – Wittenoom Rd and explore it more. After about 10km on the left hand side suddenly only flat ground appeared as far as the eye could see and then Mt King ahead. A beautiful road.
It was tempting to go to Wittenoom but all the warnings about visiting the place did hit a nerve. It was also very of putting when the road signs ask you to close the windows as you are entering an asbestos area. We turned back and decided to have another quick peak at the Hamersley Gorge at sunset before we returned to our lovely campsite.
Finally caught up with some news and found out the Cyclone Poncho was responsible for the inclement weather we were experiencing and the reason there was so much more water here. Exmouth had received 400ml in a sudden downpour during these days.
On reflection I just don’t have the words to fully describe the landscape we have experienced. It is awesome, inspiring, grandiose, majestic, strong, rugged yet at the same time has a look of fragility and harshness. Karijini is a most amazing place
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