DAY 105 ARKAROOLA

12 June 2008

DAY 105 Pilbara – Kimberley Trip

ARKAROOLA

It drizzled again overnight and there was a strong eucalyptus smell this morning as we walked down to the reception area for our 4wd tour. We walked past Mount Griselda. The colours and fracture lines on the rock face have given rise to a few quilting ideas using some different techniques. I’ve been itching to get going on my quilting again.

Arkaroola is a lovely property 610 square kilometres in size. It has an incredible range of ranges here. It was purchased in 1967 in order to re-establish the unique environment of this region- the flora and fauna and that vision is being carried on by the children of Reg Sprigg. It was originally a pastoral property but by removing feral animals to the area the landscape is returning to its original glory. It is a harsh climate here and they are in the 10th year of drought so the rain they’ve had has been most welcome as many plants are very stressed in the current climatic conditions. They are also under threat at the moment from a company wanting to mine uranium here at Mt Ghee even though the mountain has been listed for its unique geological features on a register.

Anyway this morning we set of in two vehicles for their signature tour – the Ridgetop Tour. In the morning the ranges were still in cloud.

As the morning progressed the sun would make an occasional appearance and the clouds would lift for a while.

It was a rugged 4wd trip through steep inclines and descents, over rocky ledges and rocky outcrops.

In place the track was quite slippery on very steep sections.

Our first stop was at Coulthard’s lookout. The mountain tops were still in cloud here.


As we travelled on we saw the native pine that has made a comeback after 100 years of being rare here as a result of the eradication of goats.

The second stop was at Split Rock. It was very cold here but the views were spectacular.



The culmination of the trip was going up to Sillers Lookout. A spectacular spot up a very rough and steep track.

After a hot cuppa and lamingtons at he top we finally made our way back over the same track.

The area around here is very rugged and very beautiful.

A very spectacular tour but a very rough ride. A most enjoyable morning.

After lunch we relaxed at our camping spot and were soon joined by others camped near us. After a long natter it was time to get dinner on and get a fire going as it is cold.

DAY 104 MARREE TO ARKAROOLA via LYNDHURST and COPLEY

11 June 2008

DAY 104 Pilbara – Kimberley Trip

MARREE TO ARKAROOLA via LYNDHURST and COPLEY


It drizzled most of the day. The road from Marree to Lyndhurst was no better than that of the Oodnadatta Track From William Creek to Bopeechee. It was wet and muddy. Hubby had to really concentrate on the driving. The scenery again was very picturesque.

Lyndhurst is again a very small place. We dropped in to see the art work of Alf who sculpts with talcum. He was not there but we had a look around his outdoor gallery. He must be a very unique individual with a quaint sense of humour. His work though is brilliant. We were surprised at how many people lived here.

From Lyndhurst to Copley the road was sealed. We passed coal mines as well as some lovely ranges. We made good time and had lunch at the Copley Bakery.

From here we turned off to Arkaroola as this was on hubby’s must see list. The trip there through the ranges was spectacular.

The colours are so different from those of the Pilbara and the Kimberley. They are rich but muted – dark crimson, dark blue, dark purple, dark greens – but not bright in any way.

The road was windy in places and rather hilly. Although it was also an unsealed road it was a great improvement on what we had been on earlier this morning except for the occasional spot of corrugations. The creek beds were just as dry as those on the Oodnadatta track but the trees were bigger with thicker trunks and more character.


We’ve camped at the village and enjoyed a lovely meal at the restaurant here as we really did not feel like cooking tonight. Tomorrow we will go on the Ridge Top tour as no private 4wds are allowed on the track.

Today we also remembered our eldest daughters birthday as she would have been 38 had she still been with us. A stark reminder to live life to the fullest every day.

DAYS 102 - 104 OODNADATTA TRACK

9 – 11 June 2008


DAYS 102 - 104 Pilbara – Kimberley Trip

OODNADATTA TRACK

We hit the Oodnadatta Track once more
Marla to Marree the direction we took once more
Twenty seven years later minus kids in tow
Along a road spun with memories you know


Then it was a landrover with trailer towed
Four adults, five kids and all the gear you need to stow
We spent the cold night in tents on the gibber plain
“Just the thought of them makes me feel them sticking in my back in pain”
Hubby murmurs as we travel back through the gibber plain.



Now it is a well graded track
To Oodnadatta from Marla’s flat
Saltbush and gibber plains
Some mulga too along the plains
As the track merges into the plains
A cow or two wanders by
And the odd bird flutters by




Repeater stations appear to grow
At equal distance they appear you know
Make you feel safe as you travel so
.

Till the same pink roadhouse emerges from the dust
A solid puff of pink surrounded by the dust
But no painted door on its side
And oh so different on the inside


We spent some time in this little town
So much more it has to sound
There’s a museum to be proud
And cleaned up a lot it has in the time


Past Angle Pole and many sidings
And railway sleepers off the tracks








Till we hit the Algebuckina Bridge
And the mangled car that flipped from the bridge




Old Ghan history passes by
Together with Painted Hills on the side
On the track to William Creek
Past many other dried creeks
But strange as it may seem
There is water to be seen


The road’s just opened it would seem
From William Creek to Bopeechee
As manna from heaven arrived you see
In the form of rain rare to be seen
So we slid and skated through mud churned tracks
Wheels covered in mud with no tracks


We stopped to camp for the night
But clouds gathered for the night
To maybe dish out more manna tonight
So on we went to beat the rain
Through mud and slush through dark terrain
Past Bopeechee till we decided to stop
Where the road came good
And the ground kept firm under foot



It did rain as we slept
Though warm inside the van we kept
Nicely rested we got up
To see where we ended up
To find ourselves outside the sculpture park




Enjoyed the sculptures in the park
Planehenge and cars nicely parked



Then through the drizzle we made our way
To the end of Oodnadatta Track Marree way






The Oodnadatta track is an extraordinarily interesting track. It is scenic, it has history and it has characters along the way.

There are many side trips one can do. Until we got to Oodnadatta after camping at Olarinna Creek we had no idea that the track had been closed from Oodnadatta to Marree for three days and had just reopened. We were suspicious of the road as we found more and more water on the road as we progressed.

The same rains that hit Alice Springs caused havoc here. However, they were expecting more unsettled weather.

As we travelled on the clouds got more and more ominous. We decided not to take the side trips but just keep going. After pulling up for the night at Margaret Siding we changed our minds and decided to keep moving in case it rained. It was looking more and more likely that it would. The track past William Creek was really badly churned up and still very wet in places. It would not have needed much rain to make it nearly impassable. It was hard driving through this stuff as our wheels often had no traction because of the mud sticking to them.

We stopped for the night just outside Mutonia Sculpture Park. During the night three motorcyclists who had passed us during the day went passed. We expect the rain woke them and they decided, as we did, to get out past the really bad section of road in case it got much worse.