DAY 90 FROM SOUTH TO NORTH - TOP END (NORTHERN TERRITORY) TRIP

23 July 2010

HUMBUG CREEK to CANBERRA

It is the last day of our trip to south to north. Of all days, the inverter would not charge the computer today so we couldn’t record the track for the trip or use the moving map to navigate. This was particularly off putting as we were following the route according to Google map directions. So we relied on the GPS but that doesn't give you enough information of where you are going next. Actually taking the short cut route ended up being much quicker than had we gone the other way.

It was very misty when we set off this morning.

Since leaving Nyngen yesterday we have been off the main roads and travelling on secondary roads many of them were dirt roads but in good condition.

We couldn’t believe the amount of water that was around. In many places we went through deep large pools of water on the road.

On Wyrra Lane we felt as if we were travelling in a creek not on a road as the water went on and on.

It felt like an adventure travelling along this designated route as we were bypassing most towns and travelled on narrow lanes and streets. The dirt roads were often very muddy. We passed many sheep stations. Baby lambs were keeping close to their mothers.

The fields were very green in places.  It looks like the drought has finally broken here.

Before long we were in familiar territory as we came closer to Boorowa.

From Boorowa we decided to head back on roads known to us rather than continue along the short cut. Being so close yet so far we thought we would hit the highway.

It felt good travelling through familiar territory that was so different from what we had seen.  Having been away you looked at it with fresh eyes and were able to enjoy the beauty of it rather than taking it for granted.

The kilometres seem to fly past the closer we got to Canberra.

It was a cold day in Canberra and lots of road work was evident as we travelled to the southern suburbs.

As we headed closer to home we reflected on the trip we had done. It was an exciting trip and we saw some amazing sights, met some interesting people and went to places off the beaten track. Some sights we saw we are unlikely to see again due the unusual wet season and the unusual amount of rain that many outback areas experienced this year. We were truly privileged to experience these rare sights such as Old Andado nestling in a ring of red sand dunes with a huge lake lapping the homestead.

We couldn’t get over how much water we saw either along the roads or in the rivers and the number of salt water crocodiles.  I can still visualise  the amazing rock formations, termite mounds and boabs.

We felt that there were many highlights to the trip. The most striking included:

• Entering Northern territory through a closed gate
• Ubirr rock paintings
• The beauty and isolation of Cobourg Peninsula
• Gumlon waterfall and the ‘goat track’ to the upper pools
• Bullita track with its limestone steps and challenging river crossing
• The water cascades at Flora River National Park
• The beauty of Edith Fall
• The pristine landscape along Central Arnhem Highway
• Savannah Way (we will do it again if there is an opportunity) and the Western Lost City
• The amazing building and exhibit at Stockman’s Hall of Fame

Several eating experiences will also not be forgotten:

1. Fish and Chips or should I say Barra and chips on the wharf in Darwin
2. The Nhulunbuy hamburger
3. Maisie’s Café at Pine Creek

We wander where we will head to next for a major trip – north Queensland or maybe the Canning Stock Route or it could even be Tasmania.  It is now time to start planning that next trip.  So 15,098 kilometres later and after 299 driving hours for now it will be good to be home before we head for the snow country next week.

The first thing we did when we got home was light the fire as it was cold.

What a fabulous trip!

DAY 89 FROM SOUTH TO NORTH - TOP END (NORTHERN TERRITORY) TRIP

22 July 2010

CUNNUMULLA  to HUMBUG CREEK via Bourke, Nyngan

A very brisk morning start to the day today. Our focus now is on going home so we did not go sightseeing much anywhere along the way as we had visited Burke and Nyngan on previous trips.  The distinctive features today were the sheep stations,

cattle stations,

and occasional canola fields.

The scenery is more varied and very very colourful and picturesque in places.

Lovely trees with distinctive trunks lined the main street of Nyngan.

We decided to bush camp near the lovely Humbug Creek. It was too cold to set up tables and chairs outside. The winter doona was truly in use now.  What a quick change in weather as we moved further south.

We met the owner of the adjacent property. It is hard to comprehend that this creek last flowed 10 years ago and until this year had been dry. It started to rain in this area last Xmas day and they have continued to get rain since then. The creek looks like a small river. There was lots of water flowing through it.

It was very peaceful here.  

DAY 88 FROM SOUTH TO NORTH - TOP END (NORTHERN TERRITORY) TRIP

21 July 2010

MATILDA HIGHWAY, MITCHELL HIGHWAY – Augathella, Cunnamulla

The weather is getting colder as we are heading further south. It only reached 20C degrees yesterday. It was colder this morning. No more shorts or 3/4 length pants. A light fleece is needed as well. What a change!

We had a little visitor in the Oka this morning as we had breakfast.  It ventured in several times.

As we head south towards home the landscape shows signs of human habitation. Fences not far from the road define boundaries. Sheep or cattle graze within these boundaries

Via Tambo to Augathella we went past some interesting boab like trees. I think they must be the bottle tree as it is too far south for the boabs here.

Augathella is known as the ‘Cosmos Meatant Centre’. We had heard that the meat from the butcher here was great – a pity he was closed as we were going to pick some up to take home.

Then onto Charleville we went on our way to Cunnamulla. All the towns along the way have their own distinctive character.

The railway ran parallel to the road again but we didn’t seen any trains.

Even here there were signs of recent rain with water along the road in many places.

We spent the night at Cunnumulla. We again ran into a couple we met at Borroloola. They were heading to the south coast. We consulted google maps and our GPS and decided to take the route that was several hundred kilometres shorter than the one that seemed the more logical according to the map. It will be interesting to see where it takes us as it will be along the back roads.

DAY 87 FROM SOUTH TO NORTH - TOP END (NORTHERN TERRITORY) TRIP

20 July 2010

LONGREACH, BARCALDINE

Another cold morning this morning. Temperature was slightly down from yesterday’s morning.

Not an interesting drive to Longreach. Vast open plains. Yet there is something in those vast open plains with no sign of man made structures. Where else in the world could you experience such sights. Even though they look empty they are not. They are teeming with life. Birds, emus, kangaroos, sheep are those most visible but what about those that are not visible from afar. I was not a long drive to Longreach.

We did see an empty cattle train heading west this morning.

We strolled the streets of Longreach and went to the Stockman’s Hall of Fame. What a fantastic tribute to those who are the backbone of our nation. The building itself captured the feel of the outback. The exhibit portrayed the spirit, culture, passion and the harshness of outback life. It was just awesome. There was just so much information. You couldn’t take it in, in one go. It is a MUST visit place for all Australians.

Ilfracombe was just up the road from Longreach and is famous for its mile long outdoor machinery museum.

Barcaldine was a lovely clean and proud town. Six colourful pubs lined the main street.

The Tree of Knowledge, now a preserved art piece has pride of place.

The merimba canopy provides an interesting foil for the tree.

Just down from it was the seat of knowledge. Not sure what knowledge it imparted to someone sitting on it.

A very lovely town. We bush camped for the night just south of Barcaldine. No eating outside any more as it is getting too cold.

DAYS 86 FROM SOUTH TO NORTH - TOP END (NORTHERN TERRITORY) TRIP

19 July 2010

WINTON

A cold morning this morning – 9C degrees. However, my expectation that the days will get cooler has been proven wrong so far. By 9:30 am it was 20 degrees and it reached 28 degrees in Winton.

The road to Winton was not too exciting. No more termite mounds. Endless plains with Mitchell grasses in places

with an occasional rocky jump up.

Winton was very interesting. The Waltzing Matilda Centre was great. The enactment of Waltzing Matilda was fabulous. They believe that the Combo Waterhole near Kyuna was the billabong referred to in the song. We spent hours here.

I was also lucky to be here at this time as the exhibition in the gallery was Margaret Barnett’s Shiboti Unbound’ . Her shibori Track pieces were beautiful. The rest of the centre was also very interesting. The Winton Telegraph exchange was here. It is hard to believe that it was in use until April 1984.

We went to the historic Corfield and Fitzmaurice building. The life size diaroma was well done. I was intrigued by the dinosaur fossils here. A pity we don’t have time to do the dinosaur trail on this trip. I collected information so that we could include it in a future trip.

We were not impressed with Arno’s wall or the musical fence. Most of the so called instruments are not part of the fence and reminded me of projects I used to do with high school students.

From Winton we headed south east along the Matilda Highway. The area is a catchment area for Cooper’s Creek. We spent the night at a great rest area called Crawford Creek.