DAYS 66 - 67 WINDJANA GORGE AND TUNNEL CREEK

4 - 5 May 2008

DAYS 66 - 67 Pilbara – Kimberley Trip

WINDJANA GORGE AND TUNNEL CREEK


We travelled along the Gibb River Road for some distance with a smoke haze and smell of smoke from the burning off that is taking place.

The termite mounds were very visible in the burnt out sections.
Before we knew it we were at Windjana. The sheer rock wall was in your face as if it just appeared from nowhere – stunning. We were standing looking at the ancient Devonian Barrier Reef. You had to imagine that you are standing on the floor of a vast tropical sea covering much of the Kimberley during the Devonian period 360 million years ago. The reef then built up over the next 50 million years to a depth of 2 km before subsequent earth movements uplifted it.

We decided to go for a short stroll before sunset. You enter the gorge through a narrow tunnel. You are then greeted with a sign regarding crocodile safety – a timely reminder that we are in their territory not ours.

We were then greeted by a beautiful grove and a glowing wall.

Then a fresh water crocodile on the opposite bank. The first one I had seen in the wild. Min had seen them when he had lived for a short stint in Darwin.

We saw some stunning sights.



On our return the setting sun set some areas really glowing.



In the evening Chris from Germany came for chat about places to see on his family’s twelve month trip around Australia. We have seen each other at several camp grounds recently. He is travelling with his partner and little daughter Mia. Mia is the same age as our grand daughter by the same name.

The following morning after breakfast we set out on the gorge walk as all other walks were closed. It was a 7km return trip. The gorge whilst still stunning was not as spectacular as at sunset.

We saw at least a dozen fresh water crocodiles sunning themselves half in, half out of the water or on the water’s edge.

We had to walk along a narrow track in rather dense scrub but the views were worth it.


At the end of the track before turning around to come back we ran into Chris and his family. After the walk we drove the 37km to Tunnel Creek through interesting landscape. It varied considerably.

The rock formations were so different from what we had seen earlier in the trip.

The boab trees look so stately regardless where they grow.

We finally arrived at Tunnel Creek. The approach to the entrance was quite daunting. Apparently some recent rock slides have made the entrance into the creek more difficult.

After getting past this section I was beaten by the final bit to enter the creek as my legs were too short and my joints too unstable to get through the next bit.

I was very disappointed at not being able to do the walk. Min kept going and brought back some great photos of it.

The initial view in the tunnel.

Going deeper into the tunnel.



Section where the tunnel ceiling has collapsed.

Looking up through the ceiling cavity.

Reflections in the creek.

Exit out of the tunnel at the other end.

The pool that one can swim in at the end of the tunnel.

Looking up at the re-entry point.

Re-entering the tunnel.

Stalactites

Seeing the light at the original entry point.

Agaiin what wonders of nature we have seen.

DAYS 65 - 66 BROOME - DERBY

3-4 May 2008

DAYS 65 - 66 Pilbara – Kimberley Trip

BROOME - DERBY

Saturday morning at the Broome markets was again a buzz of activity. I noted that the artist from the Broome Factory were out in full force at the market, each with their own stall. After a nice refreshing Mango Sling thick drink we topped up with fuel and were on our way to Derby.

We passed through what is known as Tombstone Valley with its thousands of termite mounds. The local indigenous people refer to the termite mounds as Jildkar. They have outstanding and enduring features of indigenous religious beliefs and practice as they would intern the remains of their dead in active mounds and in a very short time they would be re-sealed by the termites.

We made the decision to go via Purnulu and Kununurra to the Gibb River Road and do it north to south not south to north as originally planned. After a lunch stop at the Nillibubbica Rest Area we got back in the car but it would not kick over. Apparently the earth wire on the starter motor was loose. Hubby calmed got under the car and tightened the relevant bolt and we were on our way. Thank goodness he is a good bush mechanic.

The scenery now consisted of spear grasses interspersed with gums, boabs and lanky bunt out bloodwood trees.


There was a smoky haze in the distance from the burn offs in the area. Then we came across the burn off with small fires burning alongside the road.

The Fitzroy River was running and the area alongside was full of waterholes and mangroves. Luckily there was a bridge to go across it.


Finally we arrived in Derby a town that was established in 1883. It is a small, clean town with lovely wide streets and boabs everywhere.

We stayed at the Kimberley Gateway Caravan Park. A really huge 5 wheeler was parked next to us with a truck as the towing vehicle. The couple who owned it had been travelling in it 7 years. In the evening we went to the local church before coming back to a lovely stir fry dinner.

In the morning we explored Derby. We went to the jetty and Min was quite excited about being able to drive all around the jetty as it goes out then turns 90 degrees and then after some distance turns back 90 degrees for the other leg back to shore. The tide was coming in whilst we were there. Derby has the highest tides in Australia and they can be as high as 11.8 metres.
Right near the jetty is the Centenary Pavillion where the local community has put together a very impressive mosaic that captures who we are as a nation.

The unifying design element was the snake – the symbol of life, the creator. The snake is shown protecting and nurturing eggs that are represented by floral symbols of each state and territory. Eight themes are represented in the design – land, sea, wet season, dry season, pre-settlement, pioneering, people and industry.

We then drove to the old goal built in 1880. It was used to hold up to 60 Aboriginals in one cell. It was not a pleasant sight particularly as it had been in use till 1975.

We finally made our way to the Prison Boab Tree that is very impressive because of its size.

The termite mound next to it was competing in girth size.

Close to it is the trough feeding of Myalls Bore that used to provide water for 500 bullocks at any one time. There are lots of lovely boabs around here. Hubby decided to pick one.
From here we started to make our way along the Gibb to the absolutely stunning Mowanjun Arts and Cultural Centre. The building itself is amazing as it is in the shape of the Wandjina. The works displayed were beautiful. A lot of boab nut carvings were also on display but were not for sale.

DAY 64 BACK IN BROOME

2 May 2008

DAY 64 Pilbara – Kimberley Trip

BROOME - AGAIN

A brilliant dawn greeted us this morning. Interesting night last night as around midnight I got up and found that the lights were not working. Hubby got up and found that the solar regulator had switched off the power to our freezer and lights. A bit of panic but he got it going. Nothing lost - everything fine with the stuff in the freezer.

By 7.00am we were on the road back to Broome. First stop was to get the breaks checked. After that was done we booked into Palm Grove Caravan Park again – very nice place. I stayed behind to updated the blog whilst he went to the auto electrician. All batteries are charging fine but the fuse that he could not move is actually bolted in and the screw at the back had become loose at the volt meter. Hurray – problem solved. Then he went back to the All Volts place and they changed the regulator under warranty as it should not have shut down when it did.

Restocked and refuelled for the big trip ahead. Gibb River Road is open but some bits off it are still closed. Tomorrow we are going to recheck which roads are open to decide our final direction. We will either go via Purnulu, Kununurra to the Gibb or Derby, Gibb then Kununurra. The rivers and creeks are up and the advisory is not to cross the rivers unless the depth and velocity have been checked. Neither is keen to walk a crossing in croc country.

After a swim in the lovely pool here we went to Divers Tavern for some great ribs.

Tomorrow we will recheck the courthouse markets as the bustle and atmosphere was so great last time. The markets on the stairway to the moon nights were also full of people and lots of food stalls but not as many crafts stalls.

DAYS 62-63 MANARI ROAD

30 April – 1 May 2008

DAYS 62-63 Pilbara – Kimberley Trip

MANARI ROAD
WILLIE CREEK – KARADILAKAN (QUONDONG POINT)- BARRED CREEK – WALDAMA (JAMES PRICE POINT) – MANARI BEACH

I am writing the blog at Quondong Point whilst being bombarded by locusts whilst hubby is playing the piano accordion with the sound of waves in the background. Some of the locusts are big and they hit one with a real big thump. They come from all directions.

Regretfully we packed up and left Cape Leveque today. Whilst the road is not that long it takes time to drive it comfortably due to the road conditions. A trailer that has totally collapsed is a good reminder to drive to the road conditions.

Interesting what you find on the road. Lost objects start to be absorbed into the surrounding area.

We got to Willie Creek just as a tour was going to commence. We had debated about whether to do it or not whilst in Broome and couldn’t decide as we felt a bit pearled out. There are 21 pearl shops in Broome and the Broome pearls are not just expensive they are VERY expensive. They had two places left on the tour so we joined. No wander they win so many tourism awards. It is a very informative and a well put together tour.

We learnt about the care of pearls, how they are cultivated and experienced how they are farmed on a short cruise on Willie Creek. The resident croc decided not to make an appearance this afternoon. A lovely afternoon tea was served with fresh damper. Yum!

We then headed out to Kardilakan or what is more commonly known as Quondong Point to camp overlooking a rocky outcrop near a lovely sandy cove. Local story is that three sisters from Bugarregarre, Lija (boss woman), Udang and Birmarra travelled north to south creating the landscape. When reaching the beach at Murrjal they found an ant bed. They sorted the ants. They ate the sweet ants and scattered the hard ants and they are now the scattered rocks on the beach. This part of the country is also part of the Lurujarri Dreaming Trail.

Patterns in the sand again. AFter one high tide the whole beach area was covered solidly in patterns.

We have this spot totally to ourselves. No sign of the other campers (only two others from what we saw on the way in) from where we are.

This morning after breakfast we strolled along the beach. I was busy fossicking for shells whilst hubby was busy trying to refloat a buoy.



After the lovely walk along the beach we explored the area along Manari Road. We backtracked to Barred Creek but couldn’t get to the fossilized forest due to the low branches on trees. Some lovely campsites by the creek but it is croc country so I wouldn’t be relaxed camping here.

The coastine along Manari Road is spectacular. We drove onto the beach at Waldama – James Price Point. It is just beautiful here.


We drove to Manari Beach and could see Minarnny (Coulomb Point) in the distance at the end of the beach.

We started on the track to Coulomb Point but as it was very narrow we decided to turn back when there was an opportunity to turn around.

Slowly we made our way back to Kardilakan (Quondong Point) to enjoy the beach and the sound of the waves rolling in. As there was limited phone connection we contacted our children.